How to Read a Pay Stub: Every Line Explained in 2026

You got your first paycheck. Or your third. Maybe your thirtieth. And still, when you actually sit down and look at the stub behind it, it reads like a foreign language.

OASDI. FICA. SIT. YTD. Numbers that do not add up to the salary you negotiated. Deductions you vaguely remember agreeing to, and some you definitely do not. If you have ever looked at your pay stub and thought “where did my money actually go,” this is the guide that finally answers that.

We are going through every section, every line item, and every abbreviation. With real numbers, not just theory.

The five sections on every pay stub

The layout varies depending on who your employer uses for payroll, but underneath all the different formatting, the same five sections show up every time:

• Employee and employer information
• Pay period details
• Earnings
• Deductions
• Net pay and year-to-date totals

Here is what is actually in each one.

1. Employee and employer information

Top of the stub. Your name, your address, sometimes your employee ID or the last four digits of your Social Security number. Your employer’s name and address underneath.

Boring to look at, but worth a glance. If your name is misspelled or your address is out of date, it can create headaches when you are filing taxes or verifying income for a loan. Catches more people off guard than you would think.

2. Pay period and payment details

This section tells you what stretch of time you are being paid for and when the money moved.

Pay period start and end dates are the window of time this check covers. Most employers in the US run biweekly cycles, meaning you get paid every two weeks, 26 times a year. Others run weekly, semi-monthly, or monthly. The cycle matters because it changes how your gross pay is calculated each period.

Pay date is the actual date the deposit hit. This is usually a few days after the pay period ends, not the same day.

A quick example: if you earn $60,000 a year on a biweekly schedule, your gross pay each period works out to $60,000 ÷ 26 = $2,307.69. Simple math, but worth knowing so you can immediately spot if something is off.

If you are hourly, your gross pay is hours worked multiplied by your rate. Anything over 40 hours in a single workweek is overtime, federally required at 1.5 times your regular rate. Some states set the threshold lower.

3. Earnings: what you made before anything was taken out

Gross pay is the total you earned in this pay period before a single deduction. It is the number your job offer was based on.

Underneath the gross total, you might see it broken out into separate line items:

• Regular: your base pay for standard hours
• Overtime (OT): hours beyond the 40-hour threshold, at 1.5x rate
• Bonus: one-time or performance-based additions
• Commission: earnings tied to sales or performance targets
• PTO / Holiday: paid time off you have used
• Reimbursements: expense repayments, typically not taxable

A concrete example so this sticks. Say you earn $20 an hour and worked 47 hours last week:

• Regular: 40 hours × $20 = $800
• Overtime: 7 hours × $30 (1.5×) = $210
• Gross pay: $1,010

Everything else on your stub is taking from that $1,010. Let us go through what and why.

4. Deductions: the big section most people skip

This is where the money goes. All of it. There are two kinds of deductions: pre-tax and post-tax. The difference between them actually matters for your finances.

Pre-tax deductions come out before your taxable income is calculated. That means they shrink the number the IRS taxes you on, which is a good thing.

Post-tax deductions come out after taxes are already figured. No tax benefit, but they still reduce your net pay.

Let us work through every deduction type.

Federal income tax

Your employer withholds this based on the W-4 you filled out when you started. That form is what tells payroll your filing status, whether you have multiple jobs, how many dependents you are claiming, and if you want any extra withheld.

The more you claim on your W-4, the less they hold back each paycheck, but the smaller your refund or the bigger your bill comes April. The less you claim, the more they hold, and the bigger your refund. A refund sounds nice, but it really just means you overpaid throughout the year and the IRS held your money without paying you interest.

If your life has changed, such as a new kid, getting married, picking up a second job, or starting freelance work on the side, update your W-4. You can do it anytime, not just when you are hired. Most HR departments take 10 minutes to process the change.

2026 federal income tax brackets

Your employer uses IRS withholding tables to calculate this, not just a flat percentage, so two people with the exact same salary can have different federal tax withholding if their W-4 elections differ.

State income tax

Shows up as “SIT,” “State Tax,” “SWT,” or your state’s abbreviation, such as “CA Tax” or “NY SIT.”

Nine states have no state income tax at all: Alaska, Florida, Nevada, New Hampshire, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Washington, and Wyoming. If you work in one of these, this line simply does not exist on your stub.

For everyone else, the rate depends entirely on your state. California tops out over 13% for high earners. Most states land somewhere between 3 and 6% for a typical income.

One situation worth flagging: if you live in one state and work in another, you might see withholding for both. That happens a lot near state borders. A tax professional can walk you through how to claim credits so you are not paying double.

Local income tax

Not everyone has this, but it is more common than people expect. New York City charges it. So does Philadelphia. Parts of Ohio and Pennsylvania have city-level taxes too. If yours applies, it shows as a separate line item with the locality name attached.

Does not sound like much until you see 1–3% coming out on top of everything else. It adds up across a full year.

Social Security tax, also labeled OASDI

OASDI stands for Old-Age, Survivors, and Disability Insurance. That is just the official government name for Social Security. On your stub, you will see it as “OASDI,” “Social Security,” or “SS Tax.”

The employee rate is 6.2% of your gross wages. Your employer quietly pays another 6.2% on top of that. You never see it, but it is there.

The important number for 2026: the wage base limit is $176,100. Once your total earnings for the calendar year cross that threshold, Social Security tax stops entirely. If you are a higher earner, there is a noticeable jump in your take-home pay at some point in the fall when this kicks in.

Medicare tax

Labeled “Medicare” or “MED.” Rate is 1.45% of everything you earn, with no cap and no upper limit, unlike Social Security.

Earn above $200,000 in a year, or $250,000 if married filing jointly? An additional 0.9% Medicare surtax kicks in. Your employer starts withholding that extra 0.9% automatically once your wages pass $200,000. If you are married and your combined income triggers it but your individual salary does not, you may owe the difference at tax time.

Social Security plus Medicare together is what FICA refers to. It is the combined 7.65% most workers pay: 6.2% Social Security and 1.45% Medicare.

State disability insurance (SDI)

California, New York, New Jersey, Hawaii, Rhode Island, and Washington all require this. Shows as “SDI,” “SUI,” or similar. In California, as of 2024 there is no wage cap. The 1.1% rate applies to all earnings.

If your state does not require it, this line will not appear.

Pre-tax benefit deductions

Here is where it gets worth paying attention to, because these deductions actually reduce your tax bill.

401(k) or 403(b): Your retirement contribution. The 2026 limit is $23,500, or $31,000 if you are 50 or older. If your employer matches contributions, their match does not count against your limit. Contribute at least enough to capture the full match. Anything less is leaving part of your compensation on the table.

Health insurance premium: Your share of your employer plan. Comes out pre-tax in most cases. If the plan costs $500/month and your employer covers 70%, you are paying $150/month, or around $69 per biweekly check.

HSA (Health Savings Account): Only available if you are enrolled in a high-deductible health plan. The 2026 individual limit is $4,300; for families it is $8,550. HSAs are genuinely one of the better tax deals out there because contributions go in pre-tax, the balance grows tax-free, and withdrawals for medical expenses are also tax-free. Unlike FSAs, any unused balance rolls over forever.

FSA (Flexible Spending Account): Similar concept, but different rules. The 2026 healthcare FSA limit is $3,200. Unspent money at year-end is generally forfeited, though some plans allow a rollover of up to $640. If you qualify for an HSA, it is usually the better long-term choice.

Commuter benefits: Pre-tax money for transit passes or work parking. The 2026 monthly limit is $325 for transit and $325 for parking, each separate.

Dependent care FSA: For childcare or elder care expenses. Limit is $5,000 per household in 2026.

Post-tax deductions

Roth 401(k): After-tax retirement contributions. You pay taxes now, but future withdrawals, including growth, are completely tax-free. Same combined limit as traditional 401(k): $23,500 total between both types.

Group term life insurance: If your employer provides life insurance above $50,000 in coverage, the IRS treats the premium for coverage above that threshold as taxable income. You will see a small “GTL imputed income” addition on your stub. You did not receive cash. It is just a tax treatment quirk. Confusing, but normal.

Wage garnishments: Court-ordered deductions. Child support, tax liens, debt judgments. If this appears on your stub unexpectedly, talk to HR, and possibly a lawyer.

5. Net pay and year-to-date totals

Net pay

This is the number your bank account sees.

Gross pay − all deductions = net pay

For most people, net pay lands around 60–75% of gross, depending on their state, tax bracket, and what benefits they have elected. If you are taking home significantly less than that, it is worth going through each deduction line carefully.

Year-to-date (YTD)

YTD is the running total from January 1st through your current paycheck. Every pay stub shows YTD figures alongside the current-period figures, usually in a separate column.

Why it matters:

• Track your annual gross against your expected salary
• Monitor 401(k) contributions: are you on pace for your goal?
• Watch for the Social Security cutoff: when YTD gross hits $176,100, that deduction stops and your net pay increases
• Cross-check your W-2: your final pay stub of the year should match your W-2 very closely. If it does not, flag it with HR before you file

Pay stub abbreviations: what all those codes actually mean

See something on yours that is not here? Ask HR. You are entitled to a plain-English explanation of any deduction on your stub. Do not let anyone brush that off.

How to check if your pay stub has an error

Mistakes happen in payroll more often than most people assume. Wrong hours, overtime calculated at the wrong rate, a benefit deduction that doubled, a withholding that did not update after you changed your W-4. Here is how to catch them:

Check your hours and rate first. If you are hourly, the math is right there: hours × rate = gross. Verify every line. Overtime should be at 1.5× your regular rate, not your regular rate.

Compare your withholding to expectations. The IRS has a free withholding estimator at irs.gov/W4App. Run your numbers through it and see if what is being withheld lines up. If there is a significant gap, you need an updated W-4.

Review your benefit deductions. Pull up your benefits enrollment confirmation and compare it to what is actually being deducted. Especially after open enrollment, deduction amounts sometimes do not update correctly right away.

Make sure your net pay matches your bank. Sounds obvious, but actually check it. If your stub says $1,724 and your deposit was $1,698, something needs investigating.

Look at your YTD totals once a month. Catching an error two weeks later is infinitely easier than catching it six months later when you are staring down your W-2 trying to figure out why the numbers do not match.

Found an error? Here is what to do

Go to HR or payroll with specifics, not just “something seems off.” Bring your stub, your timesheet, your benefits enrollment documents, whatever supports your case. Put the conversation in writing, email is fine, so there is a record that you raised the issue and when.

Most states legally require employers to correct payroll errors within one or two pay periods after being notified. If you were underpaid, you are owed the difference. That is not a negotiation. It is a legal obligation.

If HR is not responsive, your state’s Department of Labor handles wage complaints. Filing one is not drastic. It is how the process is supposed to work.

Frequently asked questions

One last thing

Pay stubs are not interesting. Nobody looks forward to reading them. But they are the only document that tells you exactly where your money goes between your employer’s payroll system and your bank account, and errors in them are more common than most people know.

Read yours once in a while. Check the numbers. Know what the abbreviations mean. It takes five minutes, and the one time something is actually wrong, you will be glad you looked.